It is hard to believe all that has changed in my life in the space of one year.

Keiko and I had long planned a 2018 fall season trip to Japan to visit family and friends while enjoying the mountains and valleys of Japan dyed red with the changing foliage.  Over the summer, we decided to sell our Crystal Lake home and seriously consider a possible relocation to Tokyo.

By the time we departed for Japan on November 10, 2018 we had a contract pending on our Crystal Lake property, had signed a one-year lease on a Falmouth condo and were heading to Japan to, in addition to our original purpose, also explore the job market, see potential places to live and think about many details related to a possible relocation to Tokyo.

Upon our return just after Thanksgiving, we had just three weeks to plan and execute a move to meet the December 14 closing date!

Once settled in our condo, our just hopeful relocation plans quickly became reality.  Everything seemed to come together at an unexpected accelerated pace.

In January we had initiated the lengthy Japanese veterinary protocol to have Toma exported without quarantine and in March Keiko authorized the head hunters she had met with on our recent trip to proceed with job applications.

Although hopeful, we did not anticipate the quick positive response.  On June 19 she was off to Tokyo with a July 1 start date for her new accounting management position.  Toma also cleared the protocol requirements and we only needed to satisfy an 180 day waiting period.

While Keiko worked on her entry requirements, my Certificate of Eligibility for a spousal resident visa and possible living accommodations, I handled finding a container shipping company, Toma’s veterinary and transportation needs and the continued disposal of vehicles, furniture and personal goods that would not make the trip to Japan.  It was a busy, difficult time for both of us made tolerable by daily FaceTime calls.

Within a period of four months our mission was accomplished.  On October 1 Toma and I departed Boston to join Keiko in our new Tokyo condo.

Tokyo is a food lovers delight! With more than 150,000 restaurants, the city offers a staggering number of places to eat. The options range from simple, fun, cheap and fabulously good neighborhood eateries to Michelin stared fine dining establishments.

Dictionaries generally define the term “foodie” as ‘a person with a particular interest in food; a gourmet.’ Keiko and I are dedicated “foodies,” we simply like to eat!

With our cooking utensils and dishware still on a boat making its way to Japan from Boston, we have been either enjoying pre-made meals from the local food market or eating out at a wide variety of restaurants.

You may be surprised to learn that you can enjoy the culinary delights of Tokyo on a budget and also lose weight! You walk a lot in getting around Tokyo and that alone is a health benefit. (But, we also joined a sports/wellness center to say fit!)

Frankly, we are enjoying our eating routine so much that we have decided to continue the practice even after our container shipment arrives, cooking only on a weekend night or when we entertain.

Our choice of a place to eat varies and we are exploring a variety establishments in our immediate neighborhood area. I have roughly calculated that we could eat at a different place every night for a month without a repeat visit.

The Japan Times does a great job covering the Tokyo food scene and I was taken with a recent article titled “2010s: The decade Japanese food took over the world.” It tells a wonderful story of the popularity of Japanese cuisine with special attention to the food that is a staple of everyday life in Tokyo –– the convenience store egg sandwich!

Click here to read it now: Japanese Food

Although the origin of this phrase is a matter of debate, many claim it is an ancient curse of Chinese origin. For me, the first and lasting encounter with the phrase was its use in a 1966 speech by Robert F. Kennedy. RFK said “There is a Chinese curse which says ‘May he live in interesting times.’ Like it or not we live in interesting times. They are times of danger and uncertainty; but they are also more open to the creative energy of men than any other time in history.”

I relocated to Japan this year recognizing that I was departing my native land in the midst of a period of chaos and disorder as a result of Trump’s presidency. Since arriving in Tokyo, developments have only heightened my concern and focused my attention on the realization that there was no escape anywhere from living in a world made more dangerous and tumultuous by Trump.

It is evident that my adopted country of Japan also faces many challenges at home and abroad. I find it disturbing how much negative influence Trump’s behavior and policies have on Japan’s domestic and international strategies and plans. An obvious desire to please and appease Trump on a host of critical issues significantly hamper Japan’s opportunity to advance important policy initiatives.

In the domestic economic arena Japan remains mired in a period of economic stagnation that predates Trump’s election. While the Abe government’s policies have failed to reverse this condition, persistent structural issues represent an overwhelming challenge and serious threat to Japan’s future.

Foremost is the compounded impact of a declining but fast aging population, a low birthrate, and reduced size of the working age segment. This is further complicated by the continued marginalization of women in the workforce and a failure to address adoption of an immigration policy to effectively deal with the current and growing shortage of workers.

Japan’s vulnerability to devastating natural disasters like earthquakes, tsunamis and typhoons is also a great concern. The evident impact of climate change requires a more aggressive approach to environmental and sustainability issues.

The route to recovery is also dependent on Japan’s trade policies and relationships with the United States, China, the EU and Indo-Pacific region countries. Trump’s pulling the United States out of the Trans-Pacific Partnership free trade pact after his election signaled a serious problem. His trade warfare with China and a policy to pursue bilateral negotiations with other U.S. trading partners under the threat of punitive tariffs has greatly complicated Japan’s effort to reach multilateral free trade agreements.

For example, with the recent limited bilateral U.S.-Japan trade pact the Trump administration has managed to resolve its disadvantage in Japan’s agricultural market––a clear Abe political gift to golf-buddy Trump––that appears to offer little benefit to the Japan economy. In fact, Trump’s threatened imposition of further automotive tariffs undercuts its minimal positive economic impact and raises serious questions about the real value to Japan of Abe’s personal relationship with Trump.

Automotive trade accounts for 75 percent of the U.S. trade deficit with Japan. The fear is that with its “America First” protectionist agenda and Trump’s constant reference to the “very large” U.S. trade deficit with Japan, the Trump administration may now use its threat to impose numerical curbs on vehicle imports from Japan or heavy tariffs on Japanese auto and auto parts imports into the U.S. to place greater pressure on Abe in an effort to conclude trade and defense agreements under more favorable terms for U.S. interests.

In fact, Japan now finds itself in a much more insecure external environment that reflects, in part, the impact of Trump’s bewildering tenure.

While Japan faces strained relations with South Korea, North Korea’s provocative missile and nuclear ambitions, China’s increasingly growing military assertiveness in the region and Russia’s determined interest to the north, these perplexing regional issues are made more complex by Japan’s paradoxical uncertain relationship and dependence on the United States under a Trump presidency.

Trump’s contemptuous attitude toward allies, recently confirmed by his disdainful treatment of the Kurds, alone is sufficient reason for concern. His demand for a five-fold increase in Japan’s payment for future U.S. military support in the face of his dismissive view of North Korea’s missile threat, has legitimately made Japan increasingly uneasy about the long-standing defense commitment of the United States.

It is alarming but no longer unrealistic to consider that Trump could undermine an alliance system that has delivered peace and stability for so many decades.

With little I can now do at age 76 to influence events that will determine the policies and behavior of either the United States or Japan, I am nonetheless excited to be an observer “living in interesting times.” I only pray that the “creative energy of men” envisioned by RFK will be able to make the world a safer and better place to live.

I have initiated my “discovery walks” in Tokyo beginning with a stroll to the grounds of our neighborhood temple, the Nishiaraidaishi Daishi Sou-ji Temple.

One interesting benefit of taking these walks is making unexpected discoveries, enjoying spontaneous experiential activities or engaging with interesting people.  Indeed all three were features of my temple visit.

ALTEC – our local jazz cafe

Of special note, was finding a jazz club just a short from our condo.  We plan to visit soon.

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Discovery Walk 11/05/2019

Nishiaraidaishi Daishi Sou-ji Temple

It was a beautiful warm fall afternoon for a 15 minute walk to my destination.  The short trip took me through local neighborhoods of traditional Japanese homes and small shops of all type, an environment very unlike our condo’s modern high-rise location, that confirmed Adachi’s reputation that it retains much of the feel of “old” Tokyo.

Shoueikai, the shopping street that leads to the main gate of the temple presents a great leisurely opportunity to take in the atmosphere of the Nishiarai area, sample local food and appreciate the skills of the various craftspeople in the shops.

Sanmon Gate is the main gate of the temple. It was erected in the 19th century.

Just after I entered the temple grounds an unusual sight I had not seen on other temple visits caught my attention.  With the help of a local temple guide (and my handyPocketTalk translation gadget) I learned that it was a Japanese Buddhist statue of Shio Jizo covered in table salt!

The guide explained that the proper way in which to pray to this particular type of Jizo statue is to first pick up some of the salt at the statue’s feet and then rub the salt on the part of the statue’s body that you are having trouble with. By doing so she said it is believed that your pain will be taken away.  I had to try it.  Not sure if it was Jizo or a very busy day, but I did have a comfortable pain-free night’s sleep!

Although I spent time doing pre-trip research, I was not prepared for the beauty of the temple’s grounds, structures and gardens.  I was pleasantly overwhelmed by the experience.

To put the photo gallery in context, the following is a summary of my research and commentary on the temple visit.

According to legend, the Nishiaraidaishi Daishi Sou-ji Temple, dedicated to Shingon Buddhism, was founded in the 9th century.  Known for its abilities to ward off evil, this temple is famous for dispelling bad luck or feelings of ill will.  It is where many Tokyoites gather on New Year’s Eve for the ringing of the temple bell, said to ward off misfortune in the coming year.  Some years ago Keiko and I joined a crowd of many thousands here to welcome in the New Year.  I am looking forward to having the experience as a “local” this year.

This sacred site is also one of Japan’s “flower” temples, its spacious grounds and gardens full of seasonal blooms all year long, especially the many varieties of colorful peony flowers for which the temple is renowned.

While a stroll through the grounds and gardens would be a wonderful experience at any time, there is almost universal agreement that the temple is best enjoyed on an Ennichi (holy day) festival held the 21st day of every month. These festive events apparently draw large crowds and vender stalls selling Nishiarai local food and other products.

Two festivals are of particular note.  One is the highly regarded Flower Festival held in April when the peony flowers and wisteria tress are in full bloom.  I also  anticipate breath-taking visuals of cherry blossoms in the spring.  The other is the Osame no Daishi, which is the last Ennichi festival of the year on December 21st, said to be an exceptionally lively event day.

In my research I also discovered that during the temple’s April Flower Festival, you can put on a happi coat to participate in the festival’s manto mikoshi junko, or mikoshi procession and help carry the famous ceremonial portable shrine.  I have registered this once-in-a-lifetime experience on my personal bucket list for next April 21st!

Many of the temple’s grounds and buildings were undergoing construction and maintenance in readiness for the coming holiday season.  Consequently I did not get to see the many important works and treasures that are held in this temple.  However, I strolled the grounds and gardens, marveled at the incredible architectural construction and relaxed by the beautiful and restful ponds and waterfalls.

The unexpected dividend to the visit was the presence of many Japanese families with their young children who were at the temple for Shichi-Go-San, an event to celebrate children’s growth and grant them self-awareness about their status as children.  The children wear traditional clothing such as kimonos, haori coats and hakama skirts, and take commemorative photos with their families.  Seeing and engaging with them added a wonderful human dimension to my visit.

While I intend to visit the temple on its festival days, being present in a quiet everyday environment was a calming experience.  It was a perfect beginning to my Japan discovery walk plan.

I recall my amazement on an early trip to Japan in December 2000 walking around the Ginza district and feeling I was on 5th Avenue in New York during the holiday season.  Same sensation last night as we went for a walk in the neighborhood and discovered the appearance of new Christmas decorations and lighting!